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Rumi and Hafez

From Konya to Shiraz

From the fervour of mysticism to the secret of the ghazal

The road that stayed open between Anatolia and Fars for centuries: from the green dome of Konya to the two orange gardens of Shiraz.

Countries
2
Stops
8
Events
4
Distance
2468 km

The story of the route

No single person walked this route. It is a road that caravans and students and dervishes and merchants used for centuries, and at each end lies a grave that became a place of pilgrimage without anyone deciding it should.

Why Konya? Because Rumi spent his last thirty years there and wrote the Masnavi there. And why Shiraz? Because Hafez never left it. One man was in motion all his life and died far from home; the other saw the whole world from a single city. Two different relationships with the world — and that is what makes the route.

A hundred years separate them. It is unlikely Hafez had not read Rumi; Rumi never read Hafez, who had not yet been born. What travelled from Konya to Shiraz was not a text but a register: the fervour that is unmediated in the sema is veiled in Hafez's ghazal, and there it is called rendi.

The eight stops on this road — Konya, Sivas, Van, Tabriz, Hamadan, Kashan, Isfahan, Shiraz — were never mere waypoints. Each had a madrasa, a bazaar, a khanaqah. The road was itself a teaching institution.

  1. Konya
  2. Rumi
  3. fervour
  4. sema
  5. mysticism
  6. Shiraz
  7. Hafez
  8. rendi
  9. ghazal

The route map

Full map
KonyaSivasVanTabrizHamadanKashanIsfahanShiraz
  • Cultural places 9
  • Events 4
  • Experiences 4

Stations

Each station is a city with something to see; the distances are computed from real coordinates.

  1. 1

    Konya

    Türkiye

    The start. The green dome, and where Rumi spent his last thirty years.

    Rumi's room
  2. 2

    Sivas

    Türkiye444 km

    The Seljuk madrasas. Central Anatolia, high and open.

  3. 3

    Van

    Türkiye566 km

    On the shore of Lake Van, at altitude. The winters are hard and the road closes.

  4. 4

    Tabriz

    Iran256 km

    The first big city past the border. The largest covered bazaar in the world.

  5. 5

    Hamadan

    Iran418 km

    Ancient Ecbatana, and Avicenna's tomb. From here the road turns south.

  6. 6

    Kashan

    Iran283 km

    The desert edge, the Fin garden, and the carpet and coppersmith workshops.

  7. 7

    Isfahan

    Iran149 km

    The bridges of the Zayandeh Rud and Naqsh-e Jahan. Caravans stopped here for days.

  8. 8

    Shiraz

    Iran352 km

    The end of the road. The Hafezieh and the Saadieh are both here, at opposite ends of the city.

    Hafez's room

Events on this route

Events
  1. Mehr Poetry Night

    A reading of Hafez's ghazals at Talar-e Hafez. Free entry.

  2. Hafez Day

    An evening of poetry and song at the Hafezieh, with Hafez scholars and singers.

    2 sessions

  3. The Song of Shiraz

    Traditional vocal performance set to Hafez's ghazals, with setar and tombak.

  4. Sama Night

    A sama night in memory of Rumi, with daf and ney.

Experiences along this route

Experiences
  • Craft

    A Kashan coppersmith's workshop

    Half a day at the bench with a master who has been doing the same work for thirty years.

    Kashan

  • Food

    A Shirazi table

    Kalam polo, ash-e sabzi and Shirazi faloodeh, in a Qajar house in the old quarter.

    Shiraz

  • Local experience

    A sema evening in Konya

    The sema ceremony at the lodge, with an explanation beforehand of what each movement means.

    Konya

  • Walk

    A night walk at the Hafezieh

    Ninety minutes after sunset, with ghazals read beside the tomb. No coach, no large group.

    Shiraz

Find us

Event posters, photographs of the Hafezieh, and the lines that stayed with us.